Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
Pretty sure but wanted to share
View attachment clideo_editor_1b4798a64ad24aaba7e1bafaf1ba253f.mp4
View attachment clideo_editor_1b4798a64ad24aaba7e1bafaf1ba253f.mp4
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Bulb Mite?
- Thread starter Cradle of Mirth
- Start date
Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
around 1:14 in vid above has better detail. I tried to get views of how fast it moves unhindered, and angles of the top and bottom of it's body. Still unsure on ID though.
They are very sensitive to light and will run from it, they will eat at seeds but can be found on leaves in canopy.
Once I brought in a brighter light source, the mite got desperate and left the ink circle that initially contained it. Stuck to tape, bringing in light made it freak out. I'm going to try misting a few different samples of them with different ipm products and leave each one with a fresh leaf to feed on. They've made it past alternating between grandevo, venerate, +other added modes of action like Dr Zymes, JWA soap (or sals suds), essential oils ... I've yet to hit them with a foliar of B Bass powder, SST enzymes spinosad or thuricide.
Here's a similar or same type of mite
They are very sensitive to light and will run from it, they will eat at seeds but can be found on leaves in canopy.
Once I brought in a brighter light source, the mite got desperate and left the ink circle that initially contained it. Stuck to tape, bringing in light made it freak out. I'm going to try misting a few different samples of them with different ipm products and leave each one with a fresh leaf to feed on. They've made it past alternating between grandevo, venerate, +other added modes of action like Dr Zymes, JWA soap (or sals suds), essential oils ... I've yet to hit them with a foliar of B Bass powder, SST enzymes spinosad or thuricide.
Here's a similar or same type of mite
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BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
Video sent to evergreen
Ai IPM if bulb mite
“
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) for Bulb Mites (Rhizoglyphus spp. & Tyrophagus spp.)
Bulb mites are soil-dwelling pests that attack bulbs, corms, tubers, and rhizomes, causing rot, stunted growth, and secondary fungal infections. They are particularly problematic for crops like garlic, onions, tulips, lilies, and ornamental bulbs but can occasionally be found in other root crops.
1. Monitoring & Identification
What Do Bulb Mites Look Like?
• Size: 0.3–0.7 mm, barely visible to the naked eye.
• Color: White to translucent with a soft, rounded body.
• Legs: Short, with the front pair slightly longer.
• Movement: Slow compared to other mites.
Signs of Infestation
• Soft, rotting bulbs or corms with brown, necrotic tissue.
• Delayed or weak sprouting in affected plants.
• Increased vulnerability to fungal diseases, especially Fusarium and Pythium.
• Visible mites under magnification (10x–20x hand lens) near bulb bases.
2. Cultural Controls
✅ Sanitation & Prevention
• Inspect bulbs before planting and discard any that show signs of damage or rot.
• Rotate crops—avoid planting susceptible crops in the same area consecutively.
• Use clean, sterilized soil for potted or greenhouse-grown plants.
✅ Storage & Curing
• Cure bulbs at 80–90°F (27–32°C) for 2–3 weeks before storage.
• Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area to deter mite activity.
✅ Soil Management
• Keep soil well-drained to prevent moisture buildup, which attracts mites.
• Avoid excessive organic matter, which can provide food sources for mites.
3. Biological Control
✅ Predatory Mites
• Stratiolaelaps scimitus (formerly Hypoaspis miles) – Feeds on bulb mites in the soil.
• Gaeolaelaps gillespiei – Another effective predator for soil-dwelling mites.
✅ Entomopathogenic Fungi
• Beauveria bassiana – A fungal biopesticide that infects and kills mites.
• Metarhizium anisopliae – A soil-applied fungus that helps suppress mite populations.
🛠Application Tips
• Introduce predatory mites early to prevent infestations.
• Apply fungal biopesticides in moderate soil moisture conditions for best results.
4. Mechanical & Physical Controls
✅ Hot Water Treatment
• Soak bulbs in 120°F (49°C) water for 15–20 minutes before planting to kill mites.
✅ Soil Solarization
• Cover infested soil with clear plastic for 4–6 weeks in summer to reduce mite populations.
5. Chemical Control (Last Resort, Rotate MoA to Prevent Resistance)
✅ Organic Options
• Sulfur-based dusts – Can deter mites when applied to bulbs before planting.
• Neem oil or horticultural oils – May help suppress populations but should be applied with care.
✅ Miticides (Conventional Pesticides)
• Abamectin (Avid, MoA Group 6) – Effective but should be used sparingly to avoid resistance.
• Spiromesifen (Forbid, MoA Group 23) – Targets mites in multiple life stages.
• Fenpyroximate (Akari, MoA Group 21A) – Provides quick knockdown.
🛠Application Tips
• Treat soil and bulbs before planting if bulb mites are present.
• Ensure proper coverage of bulbs and soil.
• Rotate miticides to prevent resistance.
Summary of IPM Approach for Bulb Mites
✅ Inspect bulbs before planting and remove infested ones.
✅ Store and cure bulbs properly to kill mites.
✅ Introduce predatory mites (Stratiolaelaps scimitus).
✅ Use hot water treatment (120°F for 15–20 min).
✅ Apply fungal biopesticides (Beauveria bassiana).
✅ Use miticides only if necessary and rotate MoA.
Would you like a specific IPM plan based on your crop type (e.g., garlic, onions, tulips)?
✅ Hot Water Treatment
• Soak bulbs in 120°F (49°C) water for 15–20 minutes before planting to kill mites.
✅ Soil Solarization
• Cover infested soil with clear plastic for 4–6 weeks in summer to reduce mite populations.
5. Chemical Control (Last Resort, Rotate MoA to Prevent Resistance)
✅ Organic Options
• Sulfur-based dusts – Can deter mites when applied to bulbs before planting.
• Neem oil or horticultural oils – May help suppress populations but should be applied with care.
✅ Miticides (Conventional Pesticides)
• Abamectin (Avid, MoA Group 6) – Effective but should be used sparingly to avoid resistance.
• Spiromesifen (Forbid, MoA Group 23) – Targets mites in multiple life stages.
• Fenpyroximate (Akari, MoA Group 21A) – Provides quick knockdown.
🛠Application Tips
• Treat soil and bulbs before planting if bulb mites are present.
• Ensure proper coverage of bulbs and soil.
• Rotate miticides to prevent resistance.
Summary of IPM Approach for Bulb Mites
✅ Inspect bulbs before planting and remove infested ones.
✅ Store and cure bulbs properly to kill mites.
✅ Introduce predatory mites (Stratiolaelaps scimitus).
✅ Use hot water treatment (120°F for 15–20 min).
✅ Apply fungal biopesticides (Beauveria bassiana).
✅ Use miticides only if necessary and rotate MoA.
Would you like a specific IPM plan based on your crop type (e.g., garlic, onions, tulips)?”
Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
May do a dusting of b. Bass + diatomaceous earth tomo, hopefully has some effect of scratching their bodies/contaminating food, and weaken their body a little like the sst enzymes should in next day foliar with spinosad or other. Tempted to do sulfur before it's too late, still pretty early in flower, Jadam sulfur is an option...I'll wait for ID lol! Since they are soil born if bulb mites ... may have to dish out cash for Stratiolaelaps scimitus, searching them up now and they look like hairless versions of what I found lol. Hopefully it's not bulb mites
BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
Thats what i was saying before, what ur showing looks like those good mites and better to not kill things like that ezp in alive medium. My worm bin to indoor and out have tons of those h mile mites and they are just one part of food web and predators
May do a dusting of b. Bass + diatomaceous earth tomo, hopefully has some effect of scratching their bodies/contaminating food, and weaken their body a little like the sst enzymes should in next day foliar with spinosad or other. Tempted to do sulfur before it's too late, still pretty early in flower, Jadam sulfur is an option...I'll wait for ID lol! Since they are soil born if bulb mites ... may have to dish out cash for Stratiolaelaps scimitus, searching them up now and they look like hairless versions of what I found lol. Hopefully it's not bulb mites
Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
1 to 2 on some leafsets maybe 3rd one hidden away I don't see..usually only see one. In soil too tho
BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
Evergreen emailed , I gave em ur suspensions of what it is and ur video
“
I can't make out anything in the picture, but lil white mites that look like pictures of bulb mitees are common in soils. They just live there and eat decomposing matter / fungi / etc. More neutral to good than good or bad. Bulb mites are a problem with onions and tulips and the like, but not with other crops. The mites aren't a problem, but the cause might be, as in the reason the mites are enjoying the habitat might not be good for your plants.
If you are seeing an increase in mites in the soil and roots aren't looking good, there are a few potential causes:
1) Root damage from other causes and the mites are the clean up crew, as in vultures don't kill zebras but they clean up after others. If there are sporadic root problems, consider soilborne disease a possibility
2) Root damage in all the plants - consider watering regime (too much water) or soil treatment may have damaged the roots and the mites are the cleanup crew
3) If the roots look fine, and there is a lot of organic matter in the soil that stays damp, this is the likely food source for the mites.
I've seen all three scenarios. The one where soilborne disease is happening is not uncommon but also the one to not ignore - but it won't show up all at once on all the plants and usually the problem has been increasing for some time before being figured out. Don't panic, but don't ignore it.
Margaret”
“
I can't make out anything in the picture, but lil white mites that look like pictures of bulb mitees are common in soils. They just live there and eat decomposing matter / fungi / etc. More neutral to good than good or bad. Bulb mites are a problem with onions and tulips and the like, but not with other crops. The mites aren't a problem, but the cause might be, as in the reason the mites are enjoying the habitat might not be good for your plants.
If you are seeing an increase in mites in the soil and roots aren't looking good, there are a few potential causes:
1) Root damage from other causes and the mites are the clean up crew, as in vultures don't kill zebras but they clean up after others. If there are sporadic root problems, consider soilborne disease a possibility
2) Root damage in all the plants - consider watering regime (too much water) or soil treatment may have damaged the roots and the mites are the cleanup crew
3) If the roots look fine, and there is a lot of organic matter in the soil that stays damp, this is the likely food source for the mites.
I've seen all three scenarios. The one where soilborne disease is happening is not uncommon but also the one to not ignore - but it won't show up all at once on all the plants and usually the problem has been increasing for some time before being figured out. Don't panic, but don't ignore it.
Margaret”
Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
Thanks @BH ! Bummed they aren't beneficial but relieved they are identified and not a pest like HRM.
THis morning I hit them with a foliar of enzyme tea (4tbsp 2-row malted barley/5 liters water in 4HR brew)+ last second addition to sprayer of b.bass powder, spinosad and venerate. Everything is super healthy in the garden otherwise, wouldnt suspect a thing, white roots, proper dry backs, happy praying ladies...Definitely not harmful but they are couch hopping
Their numbers are not worrisome, very low and no leaf damage/markings/neg effects, and it's like 1 in 15 leaf sets I'll find 1 or 2. Since they arent beneficial and just couch hopping for the winter ill give them one last slap before flowering progresses- probably hit them with a jadam solution tomo specific to bulb mites.
Now that we know they are bulb mites, and the frequency I find them, i'm confident there is no way they could escalate to being a problem by harvest time. They may have gotten into the canopy because of a soil feed I did a week back or so before triggering 12/12. I used karanja+neem cake extract, BMC, b.Bass and Dr zymes in solution , could have made it unpleasant for them driving them up? Something I never do but after seeing the unfamiliar mites on the soil surface...
THis morning I hit them with a foliar of enzyme tea (4tbsp 2-row malted barley/5 liters water in 4HR brew)+ last second addition to sprayer of b.bass powder, spinosad and venerate. Everything is super healthy in the garden otherwise, wouldnt suspect a thing, white roots, proper dry backs, happy praying ladies...Definitely not harmful but they are couch hopping
Their numbers are not worrisome, very low and no leaf damage/markings/neg effects, and it's like 1 in 15 leaf sets I'll find 1 or 2. Since they arent beneficial and just couch hopping for the winter ill give them one last slap before flowering progresses- probably hit them with a jadam solution tomo specific to bulb mites.
Now that we know they are bulb mites, and the frequency I find them, i'm confident there is no way they could escalate to being a problem by harvest time. They may have gotten into the canopy because of a soil feed I did a week back or so before triggering 12/12. I used karanja+neem cake extract, BMC, b.Bass and Dr zymes in solution , could have made it unpleasant for them driving them up? Something I never do but after seeing the unfamiliar mites on the soil surface...
Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
maybe in 5 days, after jadam, I'll run the uvb's under and above canopy for 5-10 min, @ lights on and before lights off, for a few days, if they don't like normal light they'll really enjoy that
Couldn't collect enough samples to do some serious testing, but a misting of that diy green cleaner from your SOP made 1 sample of a few mites spaz out and die pretty quick. They got super fast for a minute then tuckered out for good. So may be using that mid flower for a bit!
Couldn't collect enough samples to do some serious testing, but a misting of that diy green cleaner from your SOP made 1 sample of a few mites spaz out and die pretty quick. They got super fast for a minute then tuckered out for good. So may be using that mid flower for a bit!
BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
she ( bug expert /tech and ipm support ) did say they do help with decomposing process of dead things ( she even made a examples ion her response ) , tbh i would not mess with attacking them and let them be part of ur natures medium inless a higher pressure ( thats just me). also i could not find anything talking about these bugs being a real issue for cannabis , but its uir plants obviously at end of dayThanks @BH ! Bummed they aren't beneficial but relieved they are identified and not a pest like HRM.
THis morning I hit them with a foliar of enzyme tea (4tbsp 2-row malted barley/5 liters water in 4HR brew)+ last second addition to sprayer of b.bass powder, spinosad and venerate. Everything is super healthy in the garden otherwise, wouldnt suspect a thing, white roots, proper dry backs, happy praying ladies...Definitely not harmful but they are couch hopping
Their numbers are not worrisome, very low and no leaf damage/markings/neg effects, and it's like 1 in 15 leaf sets I'll find 1 or 2. Since they arent beneficial and just couch hopping for the winter ill give them one last slap before flowering progresses- probably hit them with a jadam solution tomo specific to bulb mites.
Now that we know they are bulb mites, and the frequency I find them, i'm confident there is no way they could escalate to being a problem by harvest time. They may have gotten into the canopy because of a soil feed I did a week back or so before triggering 12/12. I used kaanja+neem cake extract, BMC, b.Bass and Dr zymes in solution , could have made it unpleasant for them driving them up? Something I never do but after seeing the unfamiliar mites on the soil surface...
Cradle of Mirth
In Bloom
I worry that they will be an issue for seed germs though more than mature plants if their numbers take off, so long as their numbers stay down and they don't get into my sprout mix and treat my beans like they do bulbs. Worry they could eat at them like root aphids do or turn them into an apartment lol. I also don't want to be inadvertently helping them adapt and mutate into something new via my regular ipm protocol they've made it past 
BH
Tha Dank Hoarder
ur choices but she did try to say it wasn’t the b mite issue it was if u had root rot or other issues and they would be there just because of that . no debate here just trying to support nature exp organics exp being they aren’t a threatI worry that they will be an issue for seed germs though more than mature plants if their numbers take off, so long as their numbers stay down and they don't get into my sprout mix and treat my beans like they do bulbs. Worry they could eat at them like root aphids do or turn them into an apartment lol. I also don't want to be inadvertently helping them adapt and mutate into something new via my regular ipm protocol they've made it past
“I can't make out anything in the picture, but lil white mites that look like pictures of bulb mitees are common in soils. They just live there and eat decomposing matter / fungi / etc. More neutral to good than good or bad. Bulb mites are a problem with onions and tulips and the like, but not with other crops. The mites aren't a problem, but the cause might be, as in the reason the mites are enjoying the habitat might not be good for your plants.
“
